A Turkish homeowner chasing his chickens through a hole in his basement during renovations came across an abandoned underground Turkish city that once housed 20,000 people. Excavation work uncovered an incredible marvel of engineering, a network of tunnels and shelters 18 levels deep that went down 280ft (85 metres). This enormous underground city is thought to have begun life as a system of caves built back 1200 BC by the Hittites to shelter from the Phrygians, who then in turn further excavated the area and expanded the living space when they conquered the region. In later centuries it appears as though Christian inhabitants of the Roman Empire expanded the cave systems by adding more layers and including chapels, stables and places to make wine and olive oil. The underground city of Derinkuyu was a safe haven for the people living in the region on many occasions, with a long string of conquerors and occupiers marching through that part of the world.

Planning to visit Kaymakli Underground City in Cappadocia and wondering about the logistics and what to expect once you get there? 

Then you’re in the right place!

I was in your shoes not too long ago, planning a once-in-a-lifetime family trip to Turkey and trying to figure out the best way to visit Cappadocia’s mysterious underground cities. Once I got there, I was blown away by how incredible Kaymakli is – it’s definitely one of the sights that make Cappadocia worth it! From the rich history to the architecture, the underground city of Kaymakli should be on everyone’s Cappadocia bucket list!

In this article, I’ll walk you through the history, practicalities, and highlights of visiting this incredible Turkish landmark. From its unique features to tips for an enjoyable visit, I’ve got you covered. 

Whether you’re intrigued by its history or simply seeking an adventure off the beaten path, read on to have all your questions answered and unearth the secrets of Kaymakli Underground City for yourself.

The origin of the Cappadocia’s underground cities is a bit of a mystery: no one knows exactly when they were constructed or why. The first known reference to them is found in the works of Xenophon, a Greek historian from the 5th century BCE.

Lost to time, Kaymakli – known as Enegup in ancient times – was rediscovered in the 1950s and reopened to the public almost a decade later. In 1985, Kaymakli was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since its rediscovery, archaeologists have made many key finds that help us piece together the importance of these structures.

Experts believe that the underground city of Kaymakli was originally built by the Phregians in the 8th and 7th centuries BCE to protect inhabitants from invading armies. What remains a mystery is whether or not the cities were inhabited year-round or only during invasions and wars.

The many rooms and levels of Kaymakli are connected with low, narrow, sloping tunnels. To this day, villagers still enter the tunnels and use the rooms as cellars and storerooms.

Kaymakli is a marvel of engineering and equipped with everything people would need to hide out for lengthy periods of time. There were animal stables, storage facilities, kitchens, wineries, and latrines. Air shafts, disguised as wells, provided fresh air for the underground inhabitants. 

This particular underground city consists of 8 levels, but only four are open to the public. It’s not the deepest underground city in Cappadocia (that honor goes to Derinkuyu), but with its outward spread, Kaymakli is the widest underground city and the largest.

Rock cut rooms in Kaymakli underground city.

Kaymakli is open year-round, even during winter in Cappadocia. Here are some quick facts to know before visiting the underground city of Kaymakli:

Note that opening hours and prices may change without notice. Always confirm prior to your visit by checking the official website.

Most visitors to Cappadocia stay in Goreme, so below I’ve described how to get to Kaymakli from Goreme.

Getting to Kaymakli from Goreme via public transit is complicated and time-consuming. I only recommend it if you’re traveling through Turkey on a budget. 

First, you’ll need to catch the dolmuş (mini-bus) to Nevsehir. Typically, dolmuş don’t follow set schedules and leave when full, but since this is a common route you probably won’t be waiting long.

From Nevsehir, grab another mini-bus to Kaymakli. The buses to Kaymakli depart across the street from where you’re let off in Nevsehir.  If you’re unsure where to get off, let the driver know where you’re going and they’ll indicate your stop.

Minus wait times, it takes about 40 minutes to get from Goreme to Kaymakli via public transit.

The best way to see Kaymakli Underground City, and my personal recommendation, is on a guided tour. Not only will the tour cut out the hassle of transporting yourself to and from the sight, but you’ll also have a tour guide take you through the underground city – a crucial element for learning the history and significance of the place. 

While most tours (such as the Green Tour) go to Derinkuyu, this highly-rated tour

visits Kaymakli and other important places in Cappadocia.

If you plan to rent a car in Cappadocia, you can easily drive to Kaymakli. Goreme is 26 km north of Kaymakli, and the drive takes only 30 minutes. Upon arrival, there is an on-site parking lot that charges a nominal fee.

Storage areas in Kaymakli underground city.

Want a glimpse of what it’s like inside Kaymakli underground city? Check out this short video:

As you enter the underground city of Kaymakli, one of the first things you’ll see are the former stables. These stables are pretty small, so it’s possible there are others located in sections that haven’t yet been opened to the public.

On the second floor is a church, complete with an apse, nave, and baptismal font. These features were likely added later when Byzantine Christians used the underground city to hide from attacking Persian and Ottoman armies.

It takes a bit of imagination to see how these rooms could house entire families, but the people had to sleep somewhere! The living quarters are scattered throughout the various floors, and you’ll pass through many over the course of your visit.

The underground cities were entirely self-sufficient, and this included the ability to cook for the community. Thanks to the porous nature of the soft volcanic rocks, smoke from the kitchens was absorbed and dispersed through the rocks, preventing the smoke from billowing out and giving away their location.

To sustain a village of thousands for an indefinite period of time, the underground city needed to be well-stocked. Rooms to store wine, oil, grain, and other foods were some of the most important areas in Kaymakli.

As you walk through Kaymakli you’ll notice large round stones set vertically against the walls. These are actually doorways that could only be closed and opened from inside the underground city. This enabled the inhabitants to close off the entrance to the city and prevent attackers from getting in.

It’s not surprising that a large, self-contained city would also need some toilet facilities. On your visit, you’ll pass by the former latrines, where you can see the individual holes carved for people to relieve themselves in. As there was no indoor plumbing, you can just imagine how it smelt while people were living down there!

The ventilation shafts are arguably the most important component of the underground city. Without them there would be no fresh air, making it uninhabitable. Above ground, the ventilation shafts were ingeniously disguised as wells so enemies wouldn’t know about the cities lying beneath.

Round stone doorways used to protect people inside the underground city.

Now that you know a bit of the history and what you’ll during your visit, here are my top tips for visiting the underground city of Kaymakli:

  • Hire a guide: There are no interpretive signs inside the underground city, so unless you hire a guide you won’t know what you’re looking at or learn much about the history. (Pro Tip: Don’t forget to tip your guide!)
  • Follow the arrows: Red arrows lead you through the underground city. Follow their direction so you don’t get lost and end up having to backtrack (or worse, miss something important!).
  • Watch your step… and your head: The tunnels and passages, and even some of the rooms, have uneven floors and very low ceilings. Adults will need to double over to get through some of the tight spaces. Watch your step on the uneven flooring, and watch your head for the low ceilings.
  • Bring the kids: I can’t stress enough how much fun my kids had visiting Kaymakli – it was definitely one of their Cappadocia highlights! If you’re traveling with kids in Cappadocia, this is a great activity to do with them. Just be sure to mind them so they don’t run off and get lost in the tunnels!
  • Arrive early: Although Kaymakli is not as visited as Derinkuyu Underground City, it’s still a popular place! Arrive early to beat the crowds; you’ll appreciate having this claustrophobic space to yourself.
The cramped tunnels of Kaymakliare just the right size for children.

If you’re trying to decide between visiting Kaymakli or Derinkuyu underground cities, then here’s a quick breakdown. Both cities offer fascinating experiences, so your choice will depend on your preferences and circumstances.

Kaymakli Underground City has smaller passageways and a more “underground” feel, making it a better option for adventurous individuals. It’s less crowded compared to Derinkuyu, with better signage guiding you through. However, the tight spaces might not be suitable for claustrophobic individuals. If you’re staying in Goreme, Kaymakli is slightly closer (but only by ten minutes).

On the other hand, Derinkuyu Underground City is larger and has more spacious passageways, making it a better option if you’re concerned about tight spaces. It’s also a stop on many organized tours, making it easier to visit if you’re not renting a car. If you want to visit on a tour or venture deeper underground, then Derinkuyu is the underground city for you. However, it can get crowded from all the tour groups, and navigating its larger layout might be challenging for those with mobility issues.

Both cities are interesting and worth visiting. If you prefer smaller, less crowded spaces with a more “underground” atmosphere, Kaymakli might be your choice. If you’re interested in the ease of visiting through a group tour, Derinkuyu is the better fit. No matter your decision, these underground cities are must-sees during your time in Cappadocia.

How deep is the underground city of Kaymakli?

The underground city of Kaymakli is 8 levels below ground for a total depth of 85 meters.

How many people were in the Kaymakli underground city?

Historians believe that the underground city of Kaymakli could house around 3,500 people.

What time does the Kaymakli underground city open?

The underground city of Kaymakli opens at 8 a.m. every morning.

How many underground cities are there in Turkey?

At least 200 underground cities have been found, with more being discovered.

Why did people live in underground cities?

Underground was the safest place to hide from enemies.

Visiting Kaymakli Underground City was a highlight of my trip to Cappadocia, and I’m confident it will be one of yours as well. In addition to being architecturally unique, the underground city carries a fascinating history. 

The best way to learn about the ancient history of the Cappadocia region is by visiting Kaymakli and seeing for yourself the underground conditions villagers lived in. It’s a truly remarkable place, and should definitely be on your Cappadocia itinerary.

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