Is the Great Pyramid of Giza, Egypt worth a Trip?

Back in the mid 80’s, when I was on my first extended deployment in the Mediterranean, my ship had the opportunity of doing a multinational, multiport tour of various ports around the Med. One of these ports was Alexandria, Egypt.

I can remember not being very impressed with the city, at least around the port area. Coming off the ship, we had to run a gauntlet of vendors who would see you looking like a wide eyed tourist, and immediately pull you over to try and do a hard sell on some crappy trinkets. It’s where I learned my “look from the sides of your eyes” stare. I also remember the dog sized rats that were weaving in and out of those stalls, and the piles of garbage in the center of the streets.

I’ve been an enthusiast of archaeology since I was very young, especially of Egyptology. I knew every detail of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, could recite a large number of the pantheon of deities, and had the audacity to correct my teacher when she said Cleopatra was Egyptian (she was Greek).

So, seeing a place I had wanted to visit for so long in such a state as my first impression, I was a bit crestfallen.

Navy ports of call usually offer a few tours and activities, and the one I chose was a trip to Cairo and the Giza plateau. I wasn’t too sure about the trip after having to avoid rats and vendors and garbage. I had walked out into the city a little ways, and things hadn’t changed by much. I began to think Cairo would look the same.

This sentiment is not unreasonable, either. Speak with anyone who’s visited the Taj Mahal, and they’ll tell you how the trash can be found all around the building, especially in the back. And that’s not the only world heritage site that isn’t being taken care of.

But, off to Cairo I went. Long bus trip through the desert, drinking Egyptian Coca Cola from the cooler in the front, and pulling up to Giza.

I was entranced.

Seeing the size of the pyramids and the Sphinx from the base is awe inspiring. Seeing the size of the stones used to build them. Looking up and seeing the very top, what seemed miles away, was incredible.

Years before, there had been stalls of vendors all around the base of the pyramids, all doing the hard sell. The Egyptian government went in, kicked them all out, then tore down every single stand. The grounds were pristine sand.

I couldn’t wait to get my ticket to go inside.

Then, we had to wait. There’s a little tourist area, with some vendors and restaurants, but away from all the structures. So, we paid a thousand Egyptian Lira for a camel ride, and got charged for taking pictures of said camel ride. Got an Arab head covering, and a papyrus with my name painted in hieroglyphics. There was also a stage, and seating for a laser show they performed each night. We couldn’t stay for that, but my Grandmother had seen it, and it was one of her favorite experiences.

We finally lined up for our tour, and headed in through the little entrance that had been carved in the Khufu pyramid, traveled down a claustrophobic passage so low we had to nearly duck walk, and came out into the Grand Gallery.

My heart missed a few beats. It’s so much more amazing than any picture can convey.

Up the stairs, past the locked gate to the Queen’s chamber, and into the King’s chamber. You can see where the 3 large stone blocks had been recessed into the ceiling of the entrance. I was able to touch the sarcophagus. We spoke in hushed tones that still reverberated around the chamber.

And then we left.

Not a disappointment in the least. I had touched stone that had been carved by other human hands four and half thousand years ago. I was standing where Khufu had likely stood to check on the work he had ordered.

Afterwards, we headed to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. I was able to see dozens of mummies, statues, sarcophagi, and the Tutankhamun display. It was a great climax to the trip, but I don’t remember it as well as my trip to the Giza Pyramids.

Last I heard, the Khufu pyramid is closed to interior tours. That may have changed, but apparently there had been some concern over the preservation of the structure. Even if this is still the case, just seeing the Great Pyramids from the ground at the base is worth the experience.

But, you’re not going just for that, or at least I would hope not.

There’s so many more places there to visit. The museum in Cairo is packed to the gills with artifacts that you’d marvel at. Egypt isn’t just about the big buildings and tombs. There’s art, and sculpture, and literature. Paintings from 4 thousand years ago that are still as colorful today as the day they were painted. Statues of everyday people, like the statues of husband and wife sitting next to each other.

http://egyptianmuseum.gov.eg/

This brings home that they were just as human as you or I. They weren’t a bunch of mummies buried in the sand, but living, breathing people just like you or I.

Don’t go just for the pyramids, go because there’s so much to learn there. Go because the people who live there now are friendly, and willing to show you what Egypt was, and is like. You won’t be disappointed.